It has unfortunately become ever more prevalent that a new BIR opens, and is either a disaster from the outset or becomes one as soon as the founding chefs leave. What has fortunately been less common is for well-established BIRs to lose their way. Sadly one close to me has done just that. In a town not far from where I live, there were two very traditional BIRs on which one could depend. I have visited both of these recently, and both continued to live up to their reputation. But not this evening. I went to the one that I prefer, and the one at which most visitors from the sub-continent who stay at my wife's hotel choose to dine. Until this evening, it had never let me down. But this evening I ordered a dish at which they have excelled in the past, and a dish that is close to my heart — chicken bhuna. And it was a disaster. We all know that good BIR is characterised by multiple layers of flavour. This evening's bhuna had at most one, if that — maybe zero. It was the most bland, boring, chicken bhuna I have ever had the misfortune to eat. I took 50% home, in the hopes of livening it up tomorrow, but I am afraid that I won't be going back to that BIR again. Farewell, T**** o* I****, I will miss you.
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** Phil.