Twenty years ago, there was not a single supermarket curry that I would have rated at better than 4/10; they were universally dire, and nothing like the curries that were being served in BIRs at that time. How things have changed. Morrisons is my local supermarket of choice, and I have commented before on the quality of their "Volcanic Vindaloo" and "Flaming Fiery Phal", and when these are on special offer they still offer superb value. But at the moment my local Morrisons (and probably yours) is offering take-away bags containing two curries, one (large) pulao rice, two naan and four onion bhaji, all for a fiver. Now the pulao rice and the naan go straight to the birds, but I am left with two main courses and two starters, still for a fiver. The main courses in tonight's goody bag were chicken Madras and chicken tikka masala. I pre-heated the chicken Madras at 30% in the microwave oven until I could smell that it was ready, at the same time heating some chilli-infused rapeseed oil in a 24cm copper-bottomed stainless steel pan. Once the curry was up to temperature, I poured it into the oil, gave it a good stir and it was ready to go. While that was happening, I was frying a frozen paratha in ghee, and chopping some fresh coriander. I poured the curry back into the container in which it had been sold, top-dressed it with the coriander, gave it a good grind of kala namak and tucked in. It was absolutely delicious, and would not have disgraced any modern BIR. There was plenty of Madras sauce left over, so tomorrow I will take the chicken pieces out of the tikka masala sauce, put them into the Madras sauce, and have a second meal. With just those few tweaks (chilli-infused oil, fresh coriander, kala namak) the curry is as good as anything I can find in a local BIR, and better than most. And for less than