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Curry Chat => Talk About Anything Other Than Curry => Topic started by: goncalo on April 16, 2013, 02:57 PM

Title: italian food topic
Post by: goncalo on April 16, 2013, 02:57 PM
I'm dying to find a decent ragu/bolognese sauce/enhanced olive oil recipe. Any advice?

Also wondering if anyone knows of any good forum/blogs/[e]books for italian food

Thanks!
Title: Re: italian food topic
Post by: Edwin Catflap on April 16, 2013, 03:15 PM
Hi

This one looks nice, it's by the Irish foody that name dropped cr0

http://toastedspecial.wordpress.com/tag/pasta/ (http://toastedspecial.wordpress.com/tag/pasta/)

Ed
Title: Re: italian food topic
Post by: Malc. on April 16, 2013, 03:17 PM
Search out Heston Blumenthal's 'Perfect Bolognese'. I do a variation recipe based on it that I put together and it's a staple in our household now. I could post mine if your keen to try it. :)
Title: Re: italian food topic
Post by: spiceyokooko on April 16, 2013, 03:41 PM
I'm dying to find a decent ragu/bolognese sauce/enhanced olive oil recipe. Any advice?

I use a slightly modified Elizabeth David ragu recipe and the keys to a good bolognese in my opinion are minced chicken livers in with the beef simmered with a star anise and a small swirl of cream or milk at the end of cooking.
Title: Re: italian food topic
Post by: goncalo on April 16, 2013, 04:12 PM
Search out Heston Blumenthal's 'Perfect Bolognese'. I do a variation recipe based on it that I put together and it's a staple in our household now. I could post mine if your keen to try it. :)

Cool, if you have a link to the original one, please let me know. In any case, I would welcome hearing your recipe! :)

I'm dying to find a decent ragu/bolognese sauce/enhanced olive oil recipe. Any advice?

I use a slightly modified Elizabeth David ragu recipe and the keys to a good bolognese in my opinion are minced chicken livers in with the beef simmered with a star anise and a small swirl of cream or milk at the end of cooking.

That seems highly elaborate. I can't seem to imagine how a star anise would enhance a bolognese - any recipe? :)

Also, funny that you mention minced chicken livers. My grandmother always mixed pork and beef when making bolognese and the combination of the 2 meats was fantastic!
Title: Re: italian food topic
Post by: Malc. on April 16, 2013, 04:20 PM
In any case, I would welcome hearing your recipe! :)

You can mix around with meat, it works really well with lamb/beef or lamb/pork. Also, the longer you cook it, the better it gets.

Hope you like it. :)

INGREDIENTS
Serves 4
500g lean minced beef
250g minced pork
500g fresh tagliatelle
5 tbsp olive oil
2 onions, finely chopped
1 med carrot, finely chopped
Title: Re: italian food topic
Post by: goncalo on April 16, 2013, 04:54 PM
In any case, I would welcome hearing your recipe! :)

You can mix around with meat, it works really well with lamb/beef or lamb/pork. Also, the longer you cook it, the better it gets.

Hope you like it. :)

INGREDIENTS
Serves 4
500g lean minced beef
250g minced pork
500g fresh tagliatelle
5 tbsp olive oil
2 onions, finely chopped
1 med carrot, finely chopped
Title: Re: italian food topic
Post by: Malc. on April 16, 2013, 05:15 PM
Thanks Axe sounds delicious, apart from anchovies and I'll also ommit celery because I don't have it in stock. I trust the remaining ones will still do a great work. :)

Omitting either will effect the dish as both add a dimension of flavour that is important to it, especially celery which is essential in an Italian sofrito. You could use Worcestershire Sauce in place of the anchovies or use a little re-hydrated dried porcini and the hydrated liquid.
Title: Re: italian food topic (anchovies)
Post by: Peripatetic Phil on April 16, 2013, 05:41 PM
I discovered not too long ago, to my horror, that there are at least two different types of anchovies-in-oil sold in this country; the ones I normally buy (and love) in small pilchard-shape tins with a peel-off lid, and the others in a jar.  I unwittingly added the latter to a boiled egg sandwich and found they were, not to put too fine a point on it, absolutely disgusting.  I returned them to the farm shop whence they came, and Bev explained that what I had bought were /fresh/ anchovies, whilst what I normally ate were smoked.  Has anyone else encountered these two distinct varieties ?

** Phil.
Title: Re: italian food topic
Post by: Malc. on April 16, 2013, 05:51 PM
I've never experienced a smoked anchovy only the regular cured either stored in oil or salted. I don't know too much about them to really comment, i'm afraid. Wiki mentions the milder white version which is in vinegar, was this what you had?
Title: Re: italian food topic
Post by: goncalo on April 16, 2013, 05:58 PM
Omitting either will effect the dish as both add a dimension of flavour that is important to it,

But he has to change something, so what did you expect? I've come to the conclusion that it must be human nature to risk spoiling a recipe (previously said to be first class) by altering it. I'm sorry to say it's a key reason why I seldom post recipes.

if you limited yourself from posting useless snarky remarks more than you limit yourself from posting recipes, I'm sure your contributions would be valued. I can understand where you are coming from, but as I said I don't like anchovies and I'm short of celery. What in that statement does it make you feel that I am purposely going out my way to change a recipe?

If you read my contributions to this forum, you will see that I am not supportive of customizing recipes for the sake of it. I do it occasionally, but have at least done most recipes to spec before I experiment and if not, it's simply because I'm looking for something specific and only need a "base guidance" as to how to cook a specific dish.
Title: Re: italian food topic
Post by: goncalo on April 16, 2013, 06:03 PM
Thanks Axe sounds delicious, apart from anchovies and I'll also ommit celery because I don't have it in stock. I trust the remaining ones will still do a great work. :)

Omitting either will effect the dish as both add a dimension of flavour that is important to it, especially celery which is essential in an Italian sofrito. You could use Worcestershire Sauce in place of the anchovies or use a little re-hydrated dried porcini and the hydrated liquid.

Thanks for the tip on worcestershire sauce. How much WS would you use yourself? I might run to the shop to pick up some celery. I'm only starting the dish in a couple hours.

Oh, and would you do any pre marinating of the meat or seasoning, etc?
Title: Re: italian food topic
Post by: Peripatetic Phil on April 16, 2013, 06:26 PM
I've never experienced a smoked anchovy only the regular cured either stored in oil or salted. I don't know too much about them to really comment, i'm afraid. Wiki mentions the milder white version which is in vinegar, was this what you had?

I would certainly go along with "the milder white version", but I am pretty confident that they were in oil (vinegar on a boiled egg sandwich does not sound like a good combination to me).  I will look more closely next time I am in the farm shop. 

** Phil.
Title: Re: italian food topic
Post by: spiceyokooko on April 16, 2013, 06:29 PM
That seems highly elaborate. I can't seem to imagine how a star anise would enhance a bolognese - any recipe?

The Star Anise is one of those things where you have to take a leap of faith. I was a bit dubious myself, but when I used one, I realised right away that was one of the flavours that had always been missing from my ragu/bolognese sauces.

All I can say is - try it and see for yourself, but perhaps try 1/2 a Star Anise rather than a whole one. For me Star Anise is the secret component to a real ass kicking bolognese.

Also, funny that you mention minced chicken livers. My grandmother always mixed pork and beef when making bolognese and the combination of the 2 meats was fantastic!

Chicken livers are key, you can't leave them out otherwise it just becomes another beef in tomato sauce. I think the ratio of minced meat to chicken liver is about 2:1. I also make mine with a mixture of veal, pork and beef mince.

My bolognese goes into lasagne which I'd say is probably my all time favourite dish.

I'll look up the recipe for you.
Title: Re: italian food topic
Post by: spiceyokooko on April 16, 2013, 06:33 PM
I've never experienced a smoked anchovy only the regular cured either stored in oil or salted.

The only anchovies I've come across are the salted/brined ones in oil, which are dark brown and quite salty, the cured ones in oil which are still silverish and the fresh ones 'cooked' in an acid such as lemon juice/vinegar marinade.
Title: Re: italian food topic
Post by: spiceyokooko on April 16, 2013, 06:54 PM
Here's my slightly modified Elizabeth David beef ragu:

Ingredients:

8 oz minced beef (or a combination of beef/veal/pork)
4 oz minced chicken livers
3 oz pancetta

28 grams = 1 ounce

1 carrot finely diced
1 Onion finely chopped
1/2 celery stalk finely chopped
3 Tablespoons double concentrate tomato puree
1 wineglass white wine
2 wineglasses stock (beef or chicken)
Butter/Olive oil

Grating of nutmeg
Salt and black pepper
Star Anise

Method:

Seal and brown the pancetta in about 1/2 ounce of butter and some olive oil, add finely chopped onion, carrot and celery and fry until light brown, add mince and brown evenly. Add chopped/minced chicken livers and after 2 or 3 minutes, tomato puree and then white wine. Season with salt (be aware of how much salt the pancetta imparts) and pepper and a grating of nutmeg, add stock and 1/2 star anise, cover pan and simmer for about 45 minutes to an hour.

When done optionally add a small swirl of single cream.
Title: Re: italian food topic
Post by: fried on April 16, 2013, 06:54 PM
There's as many ragu recipes as there are Italian families. I've never seen either anchovies or star anise used; that's not to say that neither are authentic or wouldn't make a fantastic recipe.

I personally use freshly grated nutmeg and cook it in the oven for up to 3h.

I've seen milk used in some recipes. I was given my recipe in that time honoured fashion, I.e.  no exact quantities or exact ingredients but as a general set of guidelines from which to make a traditional recipe.
Title: Re: italian food topic
Post by: fried on April 16, 2013, 06:57 PM
And as Spicey mentioned only using white wine.
Title: Re: italian food topic
Post by: curryhell on April 16, 2013, 08:08 PM
Next time i need to make up some bolognese, i'll definitely give these two a go.  The ingredients certainly make for solid foundations to a superb tasting finished dish.

@ goncalo

 ;) ;D
Title: Re: italian food topic
Post by: natterjak on April 16, 2013, 08:41 PM
It's not what you could call authentic Italian but there are two ingredients which I find add amazing flavour to a ragu sauce. 1. An oxo cube sprinkled in. 2. Spoonful of Asda umami paste.
Title: Re: italian food topic
Post by: Malc. on April 16, 2013, 08:55 PM
Thanks for the tip on worcestershire sauce. How much WS would you use yourself? I might run to the shop to pick up some celery. I'm only starting the dish in a couple hours.

Oh, and would you do any pre marinating of the meat or seasoning, etc?

I know it's probably too late now but I would add probably about 1-2 tablespoon depending on your taste, but remember the tamarind will give it a sour note.

Nothing on the meat just use fresh and remember that when frying it in the pan, don't put too much in or you'll end up boiling it rather than frying. I also like to get a could caramelise finish to the meat to add extra 'oomph' to the flavour. This I simply judge as the moment the sound goes from frying to crackling or popping.
Title: Re: italian food topic
Post by: Malc. on April 16, 2013, 08:57 PM
My bolognese goes into lasagne which I'd say is probably my all time favourite dish.

Ever tried Pastitsio? I think you'll really like that.  :)
Title: Re: italian food topic
Post by: spiceyokooko on April 16, 2013, 10:04 PM
Ever tried Pastitsio? I think you'll really like that.  :)

I have :) but I prefer lasagne to be honest.

I can't stand Mousaka because it's got those dreaded aubergines in it which I can't stand, what a way to ruin a lovely dish by putting aubergines into it! There are not many ingredients I don't like but aubergines and courgettes are two of them.

Another topping for spaghetti you may not have come across is Cincinatti Chilli made with chocolate (mole) and chilli's - it's quite different.
Title: Re: italian food topic
Post by: goncalo on April 17, 2013, 01:42 AM
So, my local super market was short of celery too and in haste, I picked up an organic roast tomato&bacon sauce and settled for my own concoction. I added this paste along with some garlic paste, passata, onions, peppercorns, a knorr chicken stock cube, some cooking wine which I sourced few months ago from a local italian whole-sale supplier and olive oil. Before serving I left it under the grill for a few minutes to crisp a little. We both enjoyed and we have plenty left for the next 3-4 meals. I am still keen on checking your recipe Axe, so watch this space :)


It's not what you could call authentic Italian but there are two ingredients which I find add amazing flavour to a ragu sauce. 1. An oxo cube sprinkled in. 2. Spoonful of Asda umami paste.

Thanks Natterjack for the tip, I was already familiar with using stock cubes, although I don't have an asda nearby. The closest would be up northern ireland. I wonder if this paste exists under different brand/name? And btw, I've seen references to 'umami' in several cooking related forums, what does it mean exactly?


Nothing on the meat just use fresh and remember that when frying it in the pan, don't put too much in or you'll end up boiling it rather than frying. I also like to get a could caramelise finish to the meat to add extra 'oomph' to the flavour. This I simply judge as the moment the sound goes from frying to crackling or popping.

Regards to the meat, I did that mistake of putting it all together and it boiled, but in fairness, my grandmother made bolognese "all in" (dipuraja style), and she knocked fantastic bolognese. You would think her method would be easy to follow and get the results, but it's nowhere near the damn money.
Title: Re: italian food topic
Post by: Garabi Army on April 17, 2013, 08:10 AM
Here's my slightly modified Elizabeth David beef ragu:

Ingredients:

8 oz minced beef (or a combination of beef/veal/pork)
4 oz minced chicken livers
3 oz pancetta

28 grams = 1 ounce

1 carrot finely diced
1 Onion finely chopped
1/2 celery stalk finely chopped
3 Tablespoons double concentrate tomato puree
1 wineglass white wine
2 wineglasses stock (beef or chicken)
Butter/Olive oil

Grating of nutmeg
Salt and black pepper
Star Anise

Method:

Seal and brown the pancetta in about 1/2 ounce of butter and some olive oil, add finely chopped onion, carrot and celery and fry until light brown, add mince and brown evenly. Add chopped/minced chicken livers and after 2 or 3 minutes, tomato puree and then white wine. Season with salt (be aware of how much salt the pancetta imparts) and pepper and a grating of nutmeg, add stock and 1/2 star anise, cover pan and simmer for about 45 minutes to an hour.

When done optionally add a small swirl of single cream.

Nice recipe.
This is virtually the same  as my 'house' ragu sauce  :) I tend to cook it longer, maybe 3 hours on 160c in the oven, although I take the star anise out after an hour as it can be overpowering (of course, you could use a smaller piece and leave it in but a whole one is easier to find) I've not used the chicken livers before, I'll give them a try next time.

Thanks for the tips,
Ken  ;)

Title: Re: italian food topic
Post by: Unclebuck on April 17, 2013, 05:32 PM
http://www.curry-recipes.co.uk/curry/index.php/topic,2800.0.html (http://www.curry-recipes.co.uk/curry/index.php/topic,2800.0.html)

worth a looky
Title: Re: italian food topic
Post by: tempest63 on April 20, 2013, 07:18 PM
I use this Georgio Locatteli recipe from his book Made in Italy. I also add 3 or 4 anchovies to the oil as it warms up to give it a bit more depth. This recipe makes loads but me and the wife portion it out and freeze to use as and when we need it.

Rag